Naples restaurants: Going Greek, in two parts — JLB review

To be entirely honest, going Greek wasn’t a priority. 

But when a colleague suggested I scope out the Greek scene in Naples, I thought about the potential for gyros, for pita, for my one true love: hummus. Fine, I figured. There are worse ways to spend a week. 

In combing through reviews fellow critics have conducted at Greek restaurants in Naples, I discovered a handful of modest operations tucked amid vacuum depots, pizzerias and salons. These are the restaurants I love. The blink-and-you’ll-miss-them spots that taste far better than they look. 

Places I wouldn’t find unless I was seeking them. Now that I’ve found these two, I’ll be back. 

Greek Island Cafe

At Greek Island in North Naples, I am greeted by myself. 

Rather, I’m greeted by a reflection of myself in the wall of mirrors spanning the length of one side of the restaurant. I’m also greeted by the chef. He gestures to me, waving his hands to tell me  I can sit anywhere except the one table occupied. 

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Tucked into a booth near the rear, I see the chef amble into the kitchen, I hear him shout “Opa!” and hear my saganaki hit the heat. Over the speakers, I hear the same song replay at least twice and maybe three times before they skip to the next one. 

That’s not as important as the crispy, buttery plate of cheese soon ceremoniously placed before me. I take my cheese, I take my pita, and I take my time. 

Still, it’s gone too soon. Thankfully, moussaka takes its place. Ah, moussaka. I don’t mean to blaspheme by comparing it to lasagna, but the layered eggplant vegetable bake is not altogether dissimilar from its Italian neighbor. 

The savory bitterness from the eggplant collaborates with the spicy sweetness of cinnamon to surprise the palate. The meaty sauce ties the components together despite the contradicting flavors. 

Greek Island Cafe doesn’t pretend to be anything it’s not. 

I felt like I was eating something home-cooked, and I felt welcomed into that home with good, honest food served with zero pretense. 

(Open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday to Saturday, closed Sunday at 9853 Tamiami Trail N., Naples; 239-593-5196; greekislandcafenaples.com) 

Opa Greek Restaurant 

For the entire time I’m at Opa, my dining companion and I are the only table. 

This feels equal parts like a treat and a shame. A shame because Opa deserves more customers. A treat because, without the din of other diners, we could hear our server/cook working his magic behind the black double doors separating the dining room from the kitchen, sizzling away.

When he brings our entrees — a gyro for my partner, chicken a la Greeck (according to their menu) for me — he almost whispers, “Opa,” like a proud father, a smile no doubt behind his mask. 

I was smiling, too. There’s nothing more thrilling than eating a dish the chef is just as excited for you to try as you are to eat. It’s even better when that dish is delicious. 

The so-called “Greeck” sauce is creamy, mildly tangy and poured lovingly over sauteed chicken, onion, and green and red peppers. It’s served with rice, like a disassembled stir fry, and tzatziki for any desired dipping. 

I haven’t even mentioned the hummus yet. Served with hot pieces of pita, I delight in scoop after scoop, replete with a healthy drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle of paprika. 

Opa doesn't concern itself with ambiance. The place settings are paper for quick clean-up, the drop ceiling’s seen better days and the walls are a sparsely decorated. 

It focuses that energy on creating delicious, Greek-inspired meals.

Opa indeed. 

(Open 11 a.m.9 p.m. Monday to Saturday, closed Sunday at 336 9th St. North, Naples; 239-263-2022; opagreekrestaurantnaples.com)

Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. This article came from staff writer Andrew Atkins. Follow our critics at facebook.com/jeanleboeufswfl or @JeanLeBoeuf on Twitter and Instagram; email jleboeuf@news-press.com. 

Andrew Atkins writes about food and features for the Naples Daily News. Contact him via email at andrew.atkins@naplesnews.com. To support work like Andrew's, please consider subscribing: https://cm.naplesnews.com/specialoffer/