Cape Coral restaurants: Masala Mantra is finally here, and it is great — JLB review

At 6 on a Monday night, Masala Mantra sat almost empty.

In the calm quiet, as a kind server with a British accent poured me a glass of water, I wondered if, maybe, Cape Coral wasn't ready for an Indian restaurant; if the masterful curries and fluffy biryani coming from this spice-riddled kitchen were too much for this part of town. 

An hour later Masala Mantra was packed — and I was eating my words. 

Cape Coral's first Indian restaurant (What?! How?! It's 2019!) opened Oct. 25 in the former Tasty Cultures space across from the 35-year-old Siam Hut on the southern end of Del Prado Boulevard.

It only took 62 years. 

I reiterate: How?! It's not for lack of demand. That early Monday evening aside, Masala Mantra has otherwise been packed, with couples, families, work groups. They stream into this Indian bistro smiling, then keep right on smiling as they sweat through fiery curries and as they cool off with mango lassies the color of sunshine. 

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For starters, the samosa chaat are a classic and a must: a pair of crisp-from-the-fryer samosas packed with potatoes, peas and heady spices, to be dipped in the chickpeas, yogurt and verdant, sweet chutneys layered prettily by their sides. 

There are pakora and bhaji and tongue-tingling takes on wings. But the gobi Manchurian is my obsession, a heap of tender cauliflower fried to an addicting crunch and then slathered in Mantra's spicy-sweet Manchurian sauce. It's the kind of dish you finish without realizing it; the kind you keep stabbing at until your fork clinks dolefully against an empty plate. 

My enchantment continued with tandoori shrimp with a brick-colored char and a briny sweetness. Mantra's tikka masala is reliably wonderful. Its butter chicken is, too. 

Those seeking something a tad different will love the chettinad, a yogurt-laced curry backed by ground nuts and savory spices. Those seeking heat will find eye-watering gobs of it in Mantra's Indian Inferno, a hellish blend of habaneros and green chilies that is not for the faint of stomach. 

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To be fair, most of Masala Mantra's dishes can be customized to your spice tolerance. If things get too heated, the naan is there, chewy and crisp, to cleanse and cool the palate. The herb-flecked raita helps, too, as do those sunny mango lassies. 

I'd say a lassi is the best way to end a Masala Mantra meal, but that would mean ignoring the gulab jamun, bite-sized doughnuts soaked in a cardamom-rosewater syrup that's as soothing as it is unique. The kicker at Masala Mantra is the service, which is efficient and friendly, with knowledgeable servers who are happy to detail the nuances of each dish. 

If these dishes taste familiar, that may not be a coincidence. Masala Mantra's chef came from India's Grill in Fort Myers. As the India's Grill owner told me in a message, there are only so many skilled Indian cooks in the area. Masala Mantra managed to snag a great one. 

By the time my gulab jamun arrived on that Monday night, a small crowd stood waiting in Masala Mantra's entryway. They perused menus while eyeing the tables to see who'd be leaving soon. 

The demand for Indian food is here — in spades.

Thanks to Masala Mantra, the supply finally is, too. 

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Jean Le Boeuf is the pseudonym used by a local food lover who dines at restaurants anonymously and without warning, with meals paid for by The News-Press and Naples Daily News. Follow the critic at facebook.com/jeanleboeufswfl or @JeanLeBoeuf on Twitter and Instagram.

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Masala Mantra: The Indian Bistro

4518 Del Prado Blvd. S., Cape Coral

• Food: ★★★☆

• Atmosphere: ★★☆☆

• Service: ★★½☆

JLB's stars AREN'T like Yelp stars, here's why... 

• Price: $$-$$$

• Call: 239-540-6300

• Web: masalaamantra.com

• Hours: Closed Tuesdays; lunch served 11:30 a.m.-2:30 or 3 p.m.; dinner served 5-9 or 10 p.m. 

• Noise level: Moderate, even when busy

• Etc.: All-you-can-eat buffet at lunch; takeout available; vegan menu

Sample Menu

Appetizers

• Pakora, $5

• Samosa chaat, $7

• Chicken Masala fry, $12

Entrees

• Dal tadka, $12

• Chicken tikka masala, $14

• Shrimp biryani, $16

What the symbols mean

★ - Fair

★★ - Good

★★★ - Excellent

★★★★ - Exceptional

$ - Average entree is under $10

$$ - $10-$15

$$$ - $15-$20

$$$$ - $20-$25

$$$$$ - $25 and up