Punta Gorda restaurants: Peace River Seafood adapts by going back to its roots

Kelly and Jimmy Beall have been feeding hungry seafood lovers at Peace River Seafood Restaurant & Market in Punta Gorda for 17 years. Local blue crab is their specialty, and people drive from all over the state to roll up their sleeves and crack into them.

Destination dining, this quaint crab shack sits on a rural stretch of U.S. 17 east of Interstate 75. The cottage is nestled between massive oak trees dripping with moss. Dating to the 1920s, the building was a nursery and feed store when the Bealls purchased it.

The investment came at a time in their lives when circumstances outside their control forced them to reinvent; much like what is happening today, not only to the Bealls but to many small-business owners.

“We are going back to our roots,” Kelly says of the changes they've made at Peace River in light of the coronavirus pandemic.

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Jimmy was a crabber. Decades ago, there were numerous crab “picking houses” along the Peace River where he and his colleagues sold their catches.

One by one, the picking houses closed. Restaurants discovered cheaper, imported crab meat and demand plummeted. Plus, the picking houses were sitting on valuable real estate; selling the properties became more profitable.

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“My husband and his friends had limited places to move their product,” Kelly says. “Crabbing was becoming a dying business.”

Taking matters into their own hands, they purchased the feed store and created a market and restaurant in an attempt to help keep local crabbers afloat.

Peace River Seafood has since expanded to include a wholesale business, shipping blue crab to restaurants and markets around the country, including Maryland, a state legendary for its crustaceans.

Walking up to Peace River's doors, the bang of wooden mallets echoes through the air.

“Everyone loves the mallet," Kelly says, laughing. "They feel in charge.”

The mallets are used to crack the crab legs in order to reach the tender meat inside.

“Blue crab tastes so good,” Kelly says, gushing. “The meat is just so sweet and perfect. I just love it.”

Peace River's rustic tables are lined with paper. It serves its crabs in buckets or mounded on platters. Servers enthusiastically teach newbies the nuances of opening and eating the crabs.

This time of year, Kelly says, “We have homesteader crabs. We’re getting some monsters. They are big and beautiful, and they are so good.”

While crabs are king here, seafood lovers also delight in Gulf shrimp, steamed clams, smoked-mullet dip, a daily fresh fish catch and more. Most dishes come with corn on the cob and new potatoes.

Oftentimes you’ll find all-you-can-eat seafood specials, as well. 

Another fan favorite and must try is Peace River's gumbo, a spicy combination of crab, shrimp, alligator, sausage and okra.

It’s Kelly's recipe and her secret: “Serenade that marinade," she says, smiling. "You have to cook it with love, put your heart into. If your heart is in it, it tastes so much better. The energy stays.”

Peace River's menu has been condensed until restrictions on seating capacity are lifted. Only three tables are being seated indoors, with more on the deck. The outdoor seating surrounds a koi pound. Powerful fans have been added to enhance the breeze.

A sink is available for hand washing, before and after crushing a pile of crabs. Peace River's servers wear masks.

Fewer seats and slower business have meant another pivot for the Bealls.

“We decided to return our focus to a local market, sourcing a variety of local items,” Kelly says.

Besides seafood, patrons can purchase fresh produce, local honey and soaps, even Dakin Milk from Myakka City.

“Milk has been really big,” she says. “When the milk truck comes, people actually line up to buy it.”

The Bealls have also introduced items that fall into the health and healing categories; a big part of Kelly's personal lifestyle.

“People are becoming more conscious of what they are putting in their bodies,” she says. “We thought if we do smoothies and Kratom teas, it would be something else that is easy to grab and go.” They can be enjoyed while dining in, as well.  

Not only can customers get their seafood to go, they can load up on a host of additional products, CBD oil included, avoid the more crowded grocery stores, and support local vendors.

It’s not the first time Kelly and her family have had to reinvent and adjust to changes in the economy. Like many restaurateurs, she looks forward to the return of full-capacity dining.

But in the meantime, while many Southwest Floridians are exploring their own backyard this summer, Kelly is hoping they take a drive to her family’s off-the-beaten-path seafood dive. Come for lunch or dinner, and don’t forget a cooler. You might be inspired to fill it with local seafood, produce and milk to take home. 

Gina Birch writes about food and wine for The News-Press and at thebirchbeat.blogspot.com. Follow her as @ginabirch on Twitter and find her on Facebook.