Restaurants: The 20 best dishes I ate in 2020 from Fort Myers to Naples — JLB

Way back on Jan. 2, in the rose-colored world of the Before Times, I wrote my first review of the decade. 

I sounded so hopeful. So eager. So brimming with optimism. 

"When thinking about my first review of the 2020s, Pizza 2000 made perfect sense," January-me said. "When this south Fort Myers restaurant opened in 1994 ... it felt like a vision. ... A quarter-century later, Pizza 2000 is still one of a kind."

Ahhh, to be that dewy-eyed young critic again. 

2020 has changed me — as it has everything. I haven't written a starred review since March 12. After 40 years of this Jean Le Boeuf pseudonym passing weekly judgments on everything from burgers to bouillabaisse, I've shifted to more listicles and to "first look" pieces that, while still honest, are less harsh and more forgiving. 

FROM MAY:Are starred restaurant reviews done? With COVID, it's a definite maybe

FROM MARCH:I love restaurants. I cannot advise you to dine in them right now.

As I've said many times over in this wild year, I should be the least of a restaurant's worries. Calling out a rubbery shrimp cocktail feels absurd when thousands of hospitality workers are jobless, with thousands more trying to balance employment with the health and safety of their loved ones. 

As this turbulent year comes to a close, there is so much (toilet paper shortages, Costco screaming, the first presidential debate) I'd love to forget. And yet there's so much I hope to never forget — especially when it comes to food. 

These 20 things I ate in 2020 have stuck with me, through the drama, through the shutdowns, through it all. These are the dishes that have lingered; the ones that have brought me joy long after the plates were swiped clean. 

I'll never be the same critic I was at the start of this decade. But so long as we have restaurants creating dishes as wondrous as these, I'll be just fine. 

20. Key lime pie from Duval Street in Cape Coral

If I had known this would be my last restaurant visit for many months to come, I'd have ordered differently. I'd have gotten the burger, the Parmesan truffle fries, a few more fruity cocktails. I'd definitely have tacked some tacos onto my ticket, a few extra conch fritters, too. Hindsight, as they say, is 20/20. But I'd still finish my meal with this Key lime pie. Gooey, rich and cheek-puckering-ly tangy, this pie is the creation of longtime local chef Vollen Loucks. He makes it from scratch; baking cookies for the crust, then drying them and crushing them with melted butter. Layer on a filling he's spent his career perfecting and you get Key-lime joy that I'd happily order again and again. 

(4721 Vincennes Blvd., Cape Coral; 239-542-0185; duvalstreetcc.com)

FULL REVIEW:Duval Street in Cape Coral is almost too good — JLB

19. The Gorgie from Pizza 2000

I've known this salad longer than I've known some of my friends. Calling it a salad sells it short. The Gorgie is an experience; an amalgam of impossibly fresh vegetables, crisp bacon, grilled chicken. Crumbles of gorgonzola add a kick of salt to every few bites. Penne pasta (just a few sticks) adds oomph. A house-made vinaigrette ties it all together brightly. There is nothing elaborate about The Gorgie. No part of it has been cold-smoked or sous-vide. And yet, I've come back to it — and its creator, Pizza 2000 — for more than 20 years.

(7101 Cypress Lake Drive, south Fort Myers; 239-433-2344; pizza2000fortmyers.com)

FULL REVIEW:Hello Pizza 2000, my old friend — JLB 

18. Cold brew from Shift Coffee Bar

In the depths of pandemic quarantine, my Shift Coffee delivery was a lone bright spot. I'd stare out the window on my designated delivery day like a forlorn puppy, eyes watching for that white car, for owner Donie Schepp to emerge from it and set an ice-cold gallon of his signature cold-brewed coffee on my doorstep. I'd give Mr. Schepp his space, then gallop to the door and retrieve my treasure. Shift's cold brew is little more than good, lovingly roasted coffee and cold water. But this year, that simplicity has kept me going, one delivery at a time. 

(free delivery throughout the area Tuesdays and Fridays; shiftcoffeebar.com)

3 TWEETS:A cold-brew coffee delivery addiction, or a Shift in lifestyle? — JLB 

17. Heavenly beef from Binto Thai 

I'm not sure a dish has ever been so aptly named. This Bonita Springs restaurant's "heavenly beef" is a ½-pound of flank steak cut into strips, then sauteed in hot oil till the outsides are chewy-crisp and in the insides are tender and, truthfully, quite heavenly. If this is what's awaiting me on the other side, well, then I'll have to clean up my act. 

(28811 S. Tamiami Trail No. 4, Bonita Springs; 239-676-8683; bintothai.com)

FULL REVIEW:Fast-casual Thai food? If it's Binto Thai in Bonita, yes please

16. Linguine boscaiola from Grappino

In a beautiful start to a strange year, Grappino was one of my first Naples-area reviews of 2020. This Italian restaurant opened near downtown Naples in 2019, fulfilling all my most carb-laden fantasies. The mix-and-match pasta menu was a particular standout, with 12 pastas to choose from, plus 13 topping and sauce combinations. I’ve been thinking of my linguine boscaiola since January. Grappino tosses fresh noodles with a tomato-cream sauce, mushrooms, cubes of ham and pancetta, and springy green peas. It's salty, rich and bright, hearty but not overwhelming. Beautiful. 

(90 Ninth St. N., Naples; 239-331-4325; grappinonaples.com)

FULL REVIEW:Grappino knows the way to my carb-loving heart

15. Double cheeseburger from The High Life Eatery

There's nothing complicated about this burger. The meat's not from Japan. The buns aren't brioche. The cheese may not even be cheese. But The High Life in Fort Myers doesn't need to be complicated when it's this flat-out good. This tiny kitchen presses patties of beef onto a sizzling hot griddle, then layers them with cheez singles on white-bread buns. The result is greasy, wonderful, drip-down-your-arm deliciousness. In a world with so many complications, what more do you need?

(2957 Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. No. 3, Fort Myers; 239-208-7100; facebook.com/thehighlifeeatery)

MORE:Living The High Life: Fort Myers restaurant poised perfectly for a pandemic

14. Bananas Foster waffle from Citron Bistro 

I almost picked Citron Bistro's pork-brisket eggs Benedict for this list instead. Or its chicken tikka masala. Or its red-quinoa salad speckled with feta. Everything I've had from this Indian-infused diner has been delicious, thanks to co-owner Jay Vijayan, an Indian-American chef who got his start in The Ritz-Carlton and Marriott resorts. But these waffles — these waffles with their buttery, caramelized topping, with their deep pockets, fluffy insides and crisp crusts — these waffles are Citron at its best. And with a chef of this caliber, that's saying a lot. 

(8711 Cypress Lake Drive No. 2, south Fort Myers; 239-689-8972; thecitronbistro.com)

MORE:One plaza, two restaurant wonders: JLB hits Citron Bistro and Salvatore's

13. Cali Burger from Life: The Vegan Drive Thru

As much as I love a greasy burger, there's something to be said for a burger you can eat without going comatose. Enter Life: The Vegan Drive Thru. Life opened at the end of 2019, when the world still seemed fairly intact. It didn't realize, way back then, how crucial quick, healthful food would become. The beauty of this burger is in its scratch-made, umami-rich patty crafted from a savory blend of mushrooms, quinoa and black beans. Add on some cured coconut "bacon," thick slices of avocado, and non-dairy cheese that still melts beautifully, and you get something that's almost too good to be true. 

(3310 Del Prado Blvd. S., Cape Coral; 239-599-2291; thevegandrivethru.com)

FULL REVIEW:The plant-based genius of Life Vegan Drive Thru in Cape Coral

12. Snapper piccata from Ridgway Bar & Grill

I knew I’d need to take a trip to Ridgway after Tony Ridgway’s cookbook came out last year. I’m so glad I did. There’s a sort of trance one falls into at this restaurant. The dreamy-soft lighting, the ambiance of Third Street South, the lovely green courtyard — all these elements lulled me into a relaxed state of refinement. Then the waiter put a dish of snapper piccata in front of me and I fell deeper into the Ridgway embrace. My expertly cooked snapper fillet came dressed in a lemon-wine-butter sauce dotted with briny capers. Four tender fingerling potatoes and a stack of al-dente haricots verts finished the plate, both as perfect as the snapper. 

(1300 Third St. S. No. 101, Naples; 239-262-5500; ridgwaybarandgrill.com)

FULL REVIEW:Ridgway Bar & Grill made me feel like royalty

11. Mofongo from La Parilla Boricua

The unofficial king of Puerto Rican cuisine, one has not lived until they've eaten good mofongo. For some of the area's best, there's La Parilla Boricua in Fort Myers. This fast-casual joint makes its mofongo the traditional way, with mashed plantains that are flecked with crackling pork skin and ladled in savory broth. I like to add shrimp (pork, chicken and steak are also options), and then I like to find somewhere quiet and private, where I can dig in to this royal dish as if my life depended on it. 

(3664 Cleveland Ave., Fort Myers; 239-771-8678; facebook.com/laparillaboricua)

MORE:The flavors of Puerto Rico and Germany are resurrecting a Fort Myers block

10. Sushi and sashimi from Origami

In the depths of my pandemic depression, when I feared all my beloved restaurants may be lost, I found solace in an old friend. On one of the first weekends after dining rooms were shut down, as I grew more and more bored of my cooking, I ordered takeout sushi from Origami in south Fort Myers. I don't recall what exactly I ate, just that it was supremely fresh, perfectly delicious, and everything I needed to break out of my quarantine funk. 

(8911 Daniels Parkway No. 5, south Fort Myers; 239-482-2126; sushiorigami.com)

FROM APRIL:16 absolutely wild things for takeout, delivery from SWFL restaurants

9. Ribs from Jonesez BBQ

These ribs aren't new to me. I've loved them for years, since Jonesez had a brick-and-mortar space, since it transitioned to a food truck, since that truck grew from one to three. As Jonesez has expanded, its barbecue has stayed marvelously the same, especially its ribs. These ribs need no sauce. These are thick spare ribs, smoked so the meat clings lightly to the bone, so, when you take a bite, a perfect crescent of pork comes off — no more, no less. These ribs are comfort. And in a year of chaos, these ribs are what I've craved. 

(find the trucks' schedules and more at jonesezbbq.com)

MORE:A Q&A with Vickie Jones of Jonesez BBQ

8. Chicken tikka masala and bullet naan from Le Indya

Le Indya was a game changer for the little square building on the northeast corner of Pine Ridge Road and U.S. 41 N. in Naples. Sweet mango chicken, earthy potato samosas and fragrant chai all make the must-eat list here. But the cream of the crop is Le Indya's classic chicken tikka masala with a side of bullet naan. I'm still swooning over the masala's terracotta hue, the way it fell apart so delicately in my mouth. The bullet naan is coated with garlic, green chilies and cilantro, and then brushed with melted butter. Tears come to my eyes just thinking of the joy — and spice — Le Indya brings.

(975 Pine Ridge Road, Naples; 239-591-5156; leindya.com)

FULL REVIEW:Le Indya brings masala-spiced flair to North Naples — JLB

7. Jungle Bird cocktail from Jungle Bird Tiki

I’m happy to see this restaurant has gone from a pop-up to having a permanent home in south Cape Coral. I’m happy for the bao buns and hoisin-glazed ribs, sure, but I’m especially thrilled for the drinks. Tiki-inspired cocktails are the wind beneath Jungle Bird’s wings. They are tiki done right, old-school made new-school with aged and smoked rums, craftily infused syrups and top-shelf liqueurs. None more so than its namesake Jungle Bird cocktail, which blends dark rum and Campari into something bittersweet and complex. 

(1520 Lafayette St., Cape Coral; 239-471-4111; junglebirdtiki.com)

MORE:Restaurant news: Cape Coral pop-up Jungle Bird becomes permanent

6. Brisket from Big 8 BBQ

Last year, you had to leave town to find lush, smoky, non-chain brisket. This year, I've got not one but TWO briskets on my best-of list. Big 8 BBQ launched in late October in south Cape Coral. Its pit master goes by the name Jiles — like Madonna or Beyonce, but with meat. Jiles smokes his brisket over mesquite wood for 14 hours, till it transforms from a slab of beef into something wobbly, juicy and crusted with luscious bark. I've never met Jiles, but I hope he never leaves me. 

(1217 SE 47th Terrace, Cape Coral; 667-244-8227; big8bbq.com)

MORE:Big 8 BBQ, Big Storm prove big is bountiful in Cape Coral — JLB

5. Candied-bacon bruschetta from Twisted Sheep Pizza & Brew

In July, Twisted Sheep brought outrageous pizzas and cool graffiti vibes to East Naples. And when I say outrageous, I mean totally tubular, off-the-wall, righteous pizzas, including one topped with an entire cheeseburger. However, there was one unassuming appetizer that I continue to dream about. The candied-bacon bruschetta still has me salivating. Whipped-basil brie, marinated cherry tomato halves, candied-bacon crumbles and a drizzle of balsamic reduction top these crostini. Not only is the result gorgeous and colorful, it's a marvel in the mouth: juicy, soft, crunchy, tart, salty, slightly sweet. It is everything at once, all of it delicious.

(3802 Tamiami Trail E., Naples; 239-919-3287; twistedsheeppizza.com)

FIRST BITES:Twisted Sheep Pizza, Ninja Steak House shine in Naples — JLB

4. Stuffed squash blossoms from Sweet Melissa's

I didn't take a picture of the squash blossoms. I wasn't at Sweet Melissa's for a review. I was there on my own time, celebrating another year of life at one of my favorite places to eat. Like an amateur, I dug into the crawfish-and-chorizo-stuffed blossoms with nary a photo to show for it. I dipped them into a pool of saffron-cream sauce that formed the base of the plate. I savored the light crunch of the delicately fried batter, and how it played so nicely against the spicy-briny filling. And I had a wonderful birthday. No pictures needed. 

(1625 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel; 239-472-1956; sweetmelissascafe.com)

MORE:Sanibel and Captiva restaurants: 44 delectable reasons to go to the islands

3. Meat-and-three from Industry Beer & Barbeque

My favorite thing about Industry is that everything, yes EVERYTHING, is made in house. Its meats — ribs, pork belly, pork shoulder, hot links, brisket — are smoked onsite. Its pimento cheese and pepper jelly are house recipes. Each dressing, spice blend and rub is too. Pickle chips and pickled onions? Brined in-house. Even the cornmeal doughnuts are an Industry original. And you can get any of those scratch-made goodies in one of Industry’s meat-and-three plates. Really, they should call it the meat-and-six, because you’re just going to order everything anyway.

(449 Bayfront Place, Naples; 239-331-4160; industrybeerandbbq.com)

REVIEW:Industry Beer & Barbeque serves house-made goodness — JLB

2. Rockefeller tacos from Death by Taco

This little red taco trailer cannot be overestimated. Every time I think I'm being too generous (aka, gushing like a fangirl), I take another bite, dance a little jig, and then swoon all over again. Owner Skyler Denison was the passionate cook behind the short-lived Danger Danger. This tiny trailer is all him — from the sauces, to the queso, to the marinades, even the hand-fried tortillas in the nachos. Mr. Denison is obsessively brilliant. You can practically taste his OCD in every one of his creations, but, for me, his Rockefeller tacos win. These beauties start with oyster mushrooms coated in cornmeal and fried to a chewy-crisp crunch. Mr. Denison's preserved-lemon aioli goes on next, followed by his pickled sweet corn, his fennel-shallot slaw, his pickled mustard seeds, his house hot sauce. The result is transcendent; an ethereal combination of textures and flavors that takes you far away from this world, if only for a few bites. This is Death by Taco. And it's a mighty fine one.

(find the truck's schedule and more at facebook.com/deathbytaco239)

REVIEW:Succumbing to the sweet release of Death by Taco — JLB

1. Every single thing I ate from Gather 

In the golden days of February, I had two of the best all-around dinner experiences of my life at Gather in Cape Coral. The restaurant's new chef, John Hill, turned out one perfect plate after the next on my visits: blackened salmon glistening with seaweed butter over hand-made fettuccine strewn with wild mushrooms; roasted stalks of cauliflower tumbled across a pool of red curry muted by coconut cream; Iberico pork shoulder plated with more cauliflower, this whipped into a puree that was velvety smooth yet light as air. In the golden days of February, I fell in love with Gather. All these pandemic months later, that feeling lingers strong. I've been back to the restaurant for takeout a few times. I even did some shopping there when it featured an onsite grocery market. While those experiences weren't quite the same as the first golden ones, they've shown me what this place is made of, and the lengths Gather will go to to keep its staff and customers happy, fed and, for me at least, very much in love. 

(5971 Silver King Blvd. No. 116, Cape Coral; 239-673-9939; gathercape.com)

FULL REVIEW:Cape Coral's Gather has a new chef, spectacular food — JLB

Jean Le Boeuf is the pseudonym used by a local food lover who dines at restaurants anonymously and without warning, with meals paid for by The News-Press. Email JLB at jleboeuf@news-press.com; follow the critic at facebook.com/jeanleboeufswfl or @JeanLeBoeuf on Twitter and Instagram.