COLLIER CITIZEN

Dining review: Colombian goodness served at The Colombian Kitchen in Bonita Springs

Will Watts
Columnist
Foreground, empanadas; background, chorizo and small arepa from The Colombian Kitchen, Bonita Springs.

Our next dining adventure takes us to Colombia; but don’t fret, you needn’t go farther than Bonita Beach Road. You may know it as Bella Colombia Restaurante, but some things have changed, namely the name: The Colombian Kitchen.

Our dining experience got off to an appetizing start with a non-negotiable for me, if I’m eating Colombian food, I’m eating empanadas (and if they’re good, taking some home). Here are a few reasons why: deep fried, corn-meal wrapping, meat and potato goodness on the inside and served with ají picante (a spicy Colombian empanada sauce). And OMG, this kitchen checked everything off the list and passed my test with flying colors.

New to Colombian empanadas? There’s not a lot of meat in there; but the mashed-up potatoes are a welcome filler. The picante is very thin. First, cut around the top of the empanada; add the sauce to the inside, then eat like a taco.

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Continuing with the starters, my partner in dine and I also ordered the chorizo, still wrapped like a link sausage, and an arepa, which was coin-sized. The chorizo was fresh and delicious. I cut it open and ate the delicious sausage inside; forgoing the wrapper; as they are sometimes wrapped naturally and that’s unappealing for some, including me.

The bistec a caballo from The Colombian Kitchen, Bonita Springs.

For my main course, I ordered the bistec a caballo – top round steak swimming in a creole sauce and topped with two fried eggs and served with white rice, sweet plantains or fries. I got the sweet plantains and if you just asked, why!? Then you and I shouldn’t eat together. Just saying.

The sauce was just the right level from mild to wild; very tangy and delicious. The steak was cooked to perfection and the eggs were both the ying and the yang; with crispy golden edges and runny yellow insides. Add the rice and beans and you have an orchestra of great tastes – but before you do, give those beans an individual bite or two; I promise it’s some of the best beans you’ve ever had.

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My dining companion was all in; ordering the cazuela de frijoles, ala casserole. So picture this giant bowl; start with those delicious beans in the bottom; top that with fried pork belly, Colombian sausage, sweet plantains, shoestring fires and sliced avocado. The dish is served with rice and a small corn patty on the side.

It’s like sampling the best of the menu, all in one. And surprisingly, given the down-home taste, the presentation is a work of art. Asked to give me his take on the dish he ordered, he told me how surprised he was at how well the items merged into one successful dish; with the sweetness of the beans and plantains with the meats and potato.

The cazuela de frijoles from The Colombian Kitchen, Bonita Springs.

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If you love Colombian food or just want to give it a try, you’ll find no better example. The owner comes to your table; and she’s working; not just hosting. Her mother is hard at work in the kitchen. And the food is as real and as fantastic as I’ve ever had. And yes, I took home a dozen empanadas for later. I won’t be losing any weight this week.

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If you go

The Colombian Kitchen

3431 Bonita Beach Road, Bonita Springs

Colombiankitchen.com

239-495-9943